Toddling through Mesopotamia

Look, Ma, I can write!
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Some people say Iraq is democracy’s greatest test. Others say it’s a violent mess. But a historian will say Iraq’s the cradle of civilization.
It’s true. Ancient Iraq–Mesopotamia–was likely home to the first agriculture, the first cities, the first laws. It was home to the first wheel and the first writing, too. It was where humans grew out of cultural diapers and into toddler training pants. Here’s the story, step by toddler step.
Solid Food –
Agriculture
The days of “cavemen” hunting mammoths in the snow really weren’t that long ago. The last Ice Age didn’t end until around 10,000 BC, and mammoth meatloaf stayed on man’s menu for centuries after that. Lunch came largely where you found it–find a berry, eat a berry. Archaeological evidence suggests that a few crafty cowboys (or bad hunters) domesticated cattle, pigs, sheep, and goats and started tending to their food. But nobody grew crops.
People gathered wild grains where they could, of course. Eventually, someone was bound to notice that a few scattered grains of wheat or barley had sprouted beside the grinding place. Archaeologists think this “aha!”–perhaps the most important “aha!” in human history–happened around 8000 BC, with the first farmers donning seed-corn caps in the fertile land between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. They’ve identified other contenders for the “first farmer” title, too, in Asia and the Americas. One thing is for sure. With a surplus of food like never before, the people of Mesopotamia (Greek for “land between the rivers”) flourished.
Getting Wet and Keeping Dry –
Villages & Cities
As long as lunch was on the hoof, nobody had much incentive to stay in one place. Farming, for the first time, gave people roots, and semi-permanent villages sprang up with the crops. Still, successive plantings sucked the life out of the soil, and people eventually had to pick up and move to a new garden spot. The farmers of Mesopotamia had an advantage here: river water, and plenty of it, fed the alluvial land. The trick was controlling it, both to water the crops and to keep it from flooding the village. So people learned the art of irrigation, dikes, and dams. Add in crop rotation, and you’ve got villages built to last throughout Mesopotamia.
You’ve got one more thing, too: government. Maintaining complex irrigation and flood control systems took organization and specialization. You grow the food, and I’ll dig the ditches. And Uncle Gilgamesh will collect the taxes to pay my salary and maintain the public works. By 3500 BC, the world’s first city-dwellers lived in Mesopotamian burgs where thousands of people did dozens of different jobs–and where anyone would have recognized the old joke about death and taxes.
Circle Time –
The Wheel
Fred Flintstone aside, the wheel was not a Stone Age tool. As Mesopotamian villages gradually morphed into cities between 5000 and 3500 BC, the people closest to the Persian Gulf, called the Sumerians, achieved particular prominence. By 3500 BC, some Sumerian Sam (or Samantha) had figured out how to make a wheel. A Sumerian pictograph from around 3500 BC actually features the wheel in an infomercial-style before-and-after shot, showing a wooden sled side-by-side with a virtually identical wheeled “sled.”
Inspiration seems to have come from the potter’s wheel, which appeared in Mesopotamia around the same time. All early models of the wheel consisted of three planks of wood clamped together with two crosspieces and carved to roundness. By 2000 BC, deluxe models had spokes. Oxen were sold separately.
One-Two-Three, ABC –
Cuneiform
Around the time the wheel became something to write home about, Sumerians learned how to write home. Thank the accountants, not the English majors. City life had gotten complicated, and merchants and tax collectors could no longer just remember who paid how much for what. So they started keeping simple accounts–tallies and tokens designed more to jog the memory than anything else. Soon, would-be writers started using pictographs to represent objects, and the pictographs, in turn, evolved into linear marks denoting not only objects but the sounds of spoken syllables as well.
Scholars today call the Sumerian symbols cuneiform–from the Latin cuneus, or wedge–because scribes made wedge-shaped characters by pressing the slanted end of a reed stylus into wet clay. When finished, they fired the clay to harden it. Thousands of these clay tablets survive today. The earliest tablets simply list commodities in various amounts next to people’s names.
Playing Nice with Others –
The Law
By 2100 BC, people were writing more than receipts. They were recording the law, allowing legal precedent to pass more easily from one generation to the next. Tribal rules surely existed for thousands of years. But the communal complexity of city life expanded both the need for rules and the number of situations calling for a rule in the first place. The law simply outgrew oral pronouncements.
The first known legal code comes from the Sumerian king Ur-Nammu, who founded a dynasty at the city of Ur in 2112 BC. The most famous comes from Hammurabi, who started his rule in Babylon in 1792 BC, after the Sumerians gave way to the Akkadians upriver. Hammurabi didn’t look kindly on criminals. Bad guys were as likely to die as face a fine. But he did apparently try hard for social justice. Those captured in the king’s wars were guaranteed ransom, farmers hurt by drought or flood could ignore their debts, and wives abandoned by husbands got alimony and child support. True to writing’s original purpose, many of the laws regulated commerce. Rule #105: Always get a receipt!
–Michael Himick
A Trip to Ancient Babylon
A Trip to Ancient Babylon
To see the wonders of the ancient world
Step into your time machine and set the date way, way back. Our destination is the ancient city of Babylon, whose origins lie in the 23rd century BC.
Babylon lay along the banks of the Euphrates in southern Mesopotamia, a Greek word meaning “between rivers.” As water made the name, so water defined the region. Mesopotamia does not receive enough rainfall to support crops, so civilization in the area couldn’t start until its people discovered irrigation around 6000 BC. From then on, things really began to grow.
First Glories
The Sumerians built the first great Mesopotamian civilization. While Babylon was still just a village, the Sumerians were busy inventing writing (a script known as cuneiform), establishing the first known code of law, and building the first potter’s wheel, sailboat, and seed plow.
Eventually, a Semitic tribe called the Amorites overthrew the Sumerians. Under the Amorite king Hammurabi (reigned circa 1792-1750 BC), Babylon became the center of a new empire, known as Babylonia. Today Hammurabi is best known for his famous code of laws, a list of 280 precedent-setting judgments on questions ranging from the correct punishment for murder to contractual issues surrounding wet-nursing.
After Hammurabi died, the Babylonian empire declined until it was overthrown by a new set of invaders: first the Hittites in 1595 BC, then the Kassites. Kassite rule, which lasted for 400 years, was in many ways the high point of Babylonian culture. Babylon’s priests even felt confident enough to declare Babylon’s hometown god, Marduk, top dog in the Mesopotamian pantheon.
Wondrous Gardens
In the late 12th century BC, however, the center of Mesopotamian political power passed out of Babylon, first to the Elamites in the east and then, a few centuries later, to the Assyrians in the north. For 200 years, Babylon was part of the Assyrian empire. In 689 BC, the Assyrian king destroyed Babylon, plundered and leveled its temples, and diverted the waters of a nearby canal over its ruins.
But it’s hard to keep a good city down. A new tribe, the Chaldeans, reoccupied Babylon and made it their capital. Under the leadership of their second king, Nebuchadnezzar II (reigned circa 605-561 BC), the city became the largest in the world, covering 2,500 acres and occupying both sides of the Euphrates River.
Nebuchadnezzar built the famous hanging gardens–one of the seven wonders of the ancient world–and rebuilt the temple of Marduk and its associated ziggurat (a temple style resembling a step pyramid). The massive ziggurat was 300 feet long on every side and 300 feet tall at its peak and may have served as inspiration for the Old Testament story of the Tower of Babel.
Down for the Count
After this period, Babylon’s best days were past. The great Persian emperor Cyrus conquered Babylonia in 539 BC, and two centuries later a Greek army under Alexander the Great grabbed Mesopotamia. Alexander intended to make Babylon the capital of his empire, but he died before that could happen. After Alexander’s death, the city’s Greek rulers abandoned it, and Babylon more or less closed up shop. Today it’s a heap of ruins, its glories all broken and buried in the sand.
–Mark Diller
The Iraq Attack Club
Meet the members
So you, too, want to invade Iraq? Join the club. Over the last 5,000 years, the region now known as Iraq has been the target of so many invaders you’d think that a giant bull’s-eye was painted on the land. Alexander the Great, the Roman emperor Trajan, the infamous Timur, and Suleyman the Magnificent are just a few of the guys who made it to Babylon or Baghdad before you.
circa 2350 BC – Mesopotamia, dominated by Sumerian city-states such as Kish, Ur, and Uruk, gets its first empire when the Akkadians rise to rule the region.
circa 1900 BC – The Amorites come conquering next and make the city of Babylon (just 60 miles south of modern Baghdad) the region’s political and commercial center. The land between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, once called Sumer in the south and Akkad in the north, becomes Babylonia. Later, Hittites and Kassites get in on the invasion game, but Babylonia just rolls on under new management.
circa 1150 BC – Attacks by the Assyrians and the Elamites lay Babylon low. Eventually, the Assyrians sweep south and integrate Babylon into their empire.
689 BC – The Assyrian king Sennacherib destroys Babylon, plunders and levels its temples, and diverts the waters of a canal over its ruins. Babylon remains a ghost town until a new Assyrian king decides to redecorate. Soon after, the Chaldeans kick the Assyrians out and give Babylon one last taste of glory under Nebuchadnezzar–the Old Testament king who sacked Solomon’s temple at Jerusalem and ordered the Hebrews’ “Babylonian exile.”
539 BC – The Persian emperor Cyrus the Great invades from the east with such a large army that Babylon surrenders without a fight. Babylonia becomes part of the Persian Empire–the same empire that, a few decades later, attempts a disastrous invasion of Greece.
331 BC – Beware of Greeks bearing grudges! Nearly two centuries after the Persian invasion, Alexander the Great shows up to exact revenge. The Persian emperor Darius III loses both the war and his life. Alexander decides to make Babylon the capital of his empire, but he falls ill and dies before that can happen. His general Seleucus assumes control and founds the Greek Seleucid dynasty. Babylon is abandoned, and the great city falls into permanent ruin.
53 BC – Rome, counting itself heir to Alexander’s empire, decides that the Seleucids and, later, the Parthians who rule Babylonia should hand it over. Marcus Linius Crassus invades with several Roman legions, but he’s crushed by the Parthians in one of the greatest military disasters Rome ever suffered. Rome tries again when Emperor Trajan invades in AD 115 and, this time, adds Mesopotamia to the Roman world. It doesn’t last. Trajan’s successor, Hadrian, abandons the new territories rather than bankrupt the empire in defending them.
224 – The Sasanians succeed where the Romans could not. They defeat the Parthians in an epic battle, grab the land, and create the kingdom of Iran.
637 – Arab Muslims battle to the heart of Mesopotamia, just five years after Muhammad’s death. For the first time, the name “Iraq” comes into use, designating today’s central and southern Iraq. In 656, the region officially becomes the center of an enormous Muslim caliphate, stretching all the way from North Africa to modern Pakistan. In time, Baghdad becomes the capital city.
1226 – Muslim forces fight off an invasion by Mongols under Genghis Khan, who’s already conquered most of Asia. Yet the pressure continues, and in 1258, Baghdad falls to Genghis’s grandson Hulagu, who butchers the people and builds a pyramid with their skulls. The Khans put an end to the Muslim caliphate, although some present-day extremist groups remain committed to the dream of re-establishing it.
1401 – Out to make Alexander the Great and the Khans look lame, the infamous Timur (a.k.a. Tamerlane) pays a visit to Baghdad. A master of massacres (but patron of the arts), Timur destroys the city’s monuments, slaughters its people, and raises another tower of skulls. Baghdad doesn’t recover till modern times.
1534 – The Ottoman sultan Suleyman the Magnificent seizes the area and integrates it into the Ottoman Empire. At their peak, the Ottomans rule from the edge of Austria to ancient Mesopotamia. The best and brightest of the empire pour into the Ottoman capital at Istanbul (old Constantinople).
1914 – In decline after six centuries, the Ottoman Empire enters World War I on the side of Germany. At the end of the war, in 1917, a British expeditionary force invades Iraq and takes Baghdad. British administrators govern the region until Iraq gains independence in 1932.
1941 – Britain invades again, this time in fear that Iraqi nationalists might embrace Nazi Germany as an ally against Britain. British forces penetrate Iraq and, in 30 days of fighting, force the Iraqi army to capitulate. They install a friendly government, which obediently declares war on Germany and the other Axis powers.
2003 – Some 225,000 U.S. troops and 45,000 British troops invade Iraq and topple the regime of Saddam Hussein.
–Mark Diller
Old Baghdad
Old Baghdad
It used to look a lot different
News of insurgent attacks, death squads, and military operations have become standard fare from Baghdad, which remains violent and unstable despite the insertion of more U.S. forces. But the city hasn’t always been this way. Once upon a time–before the war, Saddam, the British, or even the Ottomans–Baghdad was the Middle East’s Big Apple.
The Ur-Urban Area
Located on the Tigris River, about 330 miles (530 km) upstream from the Persian Gulf, Baghdad stands on or near lands that have served as urban capitals for about as long as such things have existed. It’s less than 60 miles (100 km) from the site of ancient Babylon, and around 20 miles (32 km) from what was once “Seleucia on the Tigris,” a Mesopotamian metropolis founded by one of Alexander the Great’s officers.
In time, Babylonians and Greeks gave way to Parthians and Romans, and eventually to the Arab armies who brought Islam to Iraq. Then, in 762, the Muslim caliph in Iraq decided that a small Persian village on the west bank of the Tigris–a sunny spot called Baghdad–might make a nice capital.
Out went the village and in went a round, triple-walled government compound more than 3,000 yards (2,750 meters) in diameter. Of course, where there’s government, there are lawyers and lobbyists, and bazaars and bungalows quickly popped up outside the walls.
Boom and Bust
Before long, Baghdad was booming–and it would boom for most of the next five centuries as the capital of the Abbasid caliphate. At its zenith, Baghdad was one of the richest cities in the world. Ships laden with trade came in from China, India, and Africa. Scholars filled libraries with books translated from ancient Greek, astronomers tended to the stars, hospitals tended to the sick, and artists and poets tended to the soul.
Baghdad saw some tough times between the 9th and 12th centuries, but it remained a major Muslim city and one of the caliphate’s crowning glories. Then, in 1258, Genghis Khan’s grandson, Hulagu, swept through Mesopotamia, sacked Baghdad, and massacred its residents. The caliphate crumbled, and Baghdad came under the successive control of Mongols, Turkmen, and Persians.
Modern Capital Investment
In 1534, the Ottoman sultan Suleyman the Magnificent took Baghdad from the Persians. Except for a short stretch in the 17th century, when the Persians returned, Baghdad remained in Ottoman hands until their empire fell to the Allied Powers in World War I.
In 1920, Baghdad became the capital of the newly formed nation of Iraq, then a British protectorate. Already, the ancient city had begun to flourish anew, thanks largely to trade along the Tigris. During the later 20th century, it grew into a major Middle Eastern metropolis–home to more than 5 million people–before becoming a war zone again.
–Steve Sampson